My fabulous life as a South African expat in Qatar

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In my late 20s, I sought a new challenge in my personal life and focused on work as I was not quite ready for suburban life with some fence (white picket or not), 2.5 children and a dog. I have always wanted to travel but work responsibilities and logistical challenges made it impossible. In 2017, I received the opportunity to teach in Qatar through a friend of a friend who worked there. I had a few days to resign from my full-time teaching job and pack up my life. It was one of the biggest jumps I have made and as a planner and over-thinker, jumping is not what I do. Before I set foot on that plane, I wasn’t able to even pinpoint Qatar on a map. On the flight (my first international one), I was violently ill with a massive stress migraine - kind of to be expected if you think about it: pack one bag and start a new life somewhere you know very little about. 

FYI, the information provided is from the perspective of a non-Muslim, married teacher, without dependents.

“Home”

The first few weeks were disorientating with all the smells (burning incense in malls, perfume and air freshener dispensers), traditional wear (abaya and thobes) and languages (nationalities include 25% Indian, 12% Bangladeshi, 10% Filipino, 9% Egyptian and 6% Sri Lankan). Luckily, I quickly became friends with fellow South Africans and other nationalities through school and social events. And a large South African expat community with different meetup opportunities and an active group on Facebook. Ironically, I met my partner (a fellow South African) at a reconciliation day ‘braai’ (barbeque), in Qatar. Skip forward to the present; it will soon be my 6th year in Qatar. A 2-year plan turned into my now “home”. As an expat you receive a residence permit and are sponsored to work in Qatar. The sponsorship is either from your employer at work or a spouse. “Home” is a complicated term in Qatar as one cannot immigrate to the country, and the ability to receive citizenship is quite uncommon with a few rare exceptions to buying expensive property. There is always a feeling that it’s all very temporary, and I still view South Africa as “home”. At a certain age (for teachers it’s usually around 60), you will be asked to resign and would then have to leave the country as you can’t retire in Qatar - no work, no stay.

How we live our day to days

I can describe Qatar in two words: comfortable and convenient. Generally, teacher salaries in Qatar allow you to live comfortably, visit your home country at least once a year, and travel to different countries. Most job offers include an annual ticket to your home country, furnished accommodation (utilities included), a housing allowance, and transport to work. As I want to keep my South African citizenship, I complete annual SARS tax returns, and the process is simple as Qatar is tax-free. There are also options for economic emigration for individuals who do not want a tax obligation in South Africa.

On weekends (Fridays and Saturdays, as the work week is from Sunday to Thursday), you can enjoy brunch (unlimited drinks and food), stroll in one of many well-kept parks, and visit beaches or malls. International hotels offer a large selection of restaurants, clubs and pubs where cuisine and alcoholic beverages from around the world can be enjoyed. If you prefer a glass of red at home after a long day, you can apply for a licence, make an appointment and visit one of two liquor outlets in the city. You can also buy pork products (only available at certain outlets) to make your Spur or Wimpy breakfast. A large selection of South African products are also available in Qatar from private suppliers and shops. 

Many people in Qatar are night owls, and the city comes alive at night with families and children out and about in parks or malls. Do not be surprised if you see children in a mall at 11 pm on a school night (malls are open until late).

Friday is an Islam holy day with a special prayer morning, and many places are closed until about 1 pm. Ramadan is a sacred month in Qatar; no eating, drinking or smoking is allowed during daylight hours. Additionally, there are no alcoholic beverages available anywhere in the country during this month, so many expats stock up and socialise at home.

During holidays (approximately 12 weeks per year), you can travel internationally or head to your home country from the magnificent Hamad International Airport (one of the best airports in the world and a common layover point). Due to Qatar’s location, currency and ample holidays, I have had the opportunity to travel to numerous destinations, including France, The Netherlands, Italy, Turkey, Bali, Thailand and Georgia. 

There are ample, beautiful supermarkets in Qatar (including a few Spar’s) with food options from around the world. In the meat section, you could choose your country of meat preference, including South Africa. When buying fruit, you can find almost anything (forget seasonal), as fruit is imported from around the world. On the days when you are feeling too lazy to cook, numerous delivery apps are available to choose from, and within 30 minutes, you can enjoy cuisine from anywhere in the world. Delivery motorcycles are almost as common as Land Cruisers, and you will see them everywhere navigating through traffic. Traffic is challenging due to the large number of cars, and patience is key. They do improve the infrastructure rapidly, but that often leads to changing roads (Waze and Google Maps cannot keep up) and constant road construction. Therefore getting to your destination can often be a mysterious adventure.

Weather

As Qatar is in the desert, this topic deserves its own section. There are basically only two seasons in Qatar: Cooking like a rotisserie chicken, or mildly cool. The summer months (approximately May-September) are the most challenging, with temperatures reaching 45 degrees Celsius. Everything and everywhere is equipped with ACs, but as a teacher, you might still do break and gate duties in 30+ degree weather. “Winter” months (December to February) are lovely, with temperatures around 20 degrees making outdoor activities enjoyable. 

How safe is it?

Qatar is one of the safest countries in the world due to strict rules and safety measures. There are CCTV cameras in all public spaces indoors and outdoors, and security guards visible at most buildings (residential, recreational or corporate). I can run in any park at any time of the day or evening. I might pass out from heat exhaustion in the summer, but other than that, I would be safe. Your personal belongings can be placed anywhere, and you would find them where you left them, or they would have been handed to a staff member. I would often go to bed with my apartment door unlocked or leave it open for friends to enter as they wished. 

Getting places

There is an effective and cheap public transport system with meticulously clean and safe metro trains, trams and buses. Obtaining a driving licence can take a few months as you must do driving lessons and a driving test. Driving on the right side of the road takes getting used to, but becomes second nature soon, and the lack of potholes make up for it. There are various car renting agencies (starting from about R6000 or $300 per month) available if you want to avoid buying a car. There are reckless drivers on the road (Land Cruisers, I am looking at you) requiring increased concentration and focus. However, respectfully staying in your lane is generally needed in Qatar. Qatari women form part of the driving community, and I often admire their beautiful cars. I particularly enjoy watching a petite Qatari woman drive a huge “bakkie” (truck). Taxis and Ubers are also available, making a private vehicle optional. These are also convenient after a night out, as there is zero tolerance for drinking and driving, and many traffic and police officers are visible in the city. 

Culture

Qatari women wear abayas (long black capes) and a shaila (long black scarf wrapped over their hair). Other Arab Muslim or Muslim women (non-Qatari) wear the hijab or hair covering. Qatari men wear the thobe (floor-length white robe), the ghutra (scarf) and an agal (black rope accessory atop the ghutra). Regarding the culture, most expats (approximately 88% of the residents are non-Qatari) dress modestly but are not expected to wear traditional clothes. Modest dressing means no spaghetti straps, cleavage and shorts / mini-skirts in public spaces such as malls, shops or local restaurants. If you choose to be a rebel, you would probably get disapproving stares and come across as disrespectful, as approximately 68% of the population are Muslim. This does not apply to hotels and their establishments where you can wear your shortest party dress or Victoria’s Secret Bikini while sipping cocktails. Some residential areas in Doha predominantly consist of expats and have more relaxed dressing styles. You would not necessarily even know that you are in an Arab / Muslim country. 

The social etiquette in Qatar derives from the Islamic tradition. When you meet people of the opposite sex, it is best not to offer your hand in greeting and wait for their handshake initiation. I find most Qatari men courteous and respectful, but there is an element of division that is applicable due to cultural differences and norms. Public affection is not allowed in Qatar, and if you see a couple not holding hands or kissing, it might be due to respecting cultural norms and not necessarily a lover’s quarrel. Married couples can hold hands, but it is not common in Qatar. On one of my recent travels, I saw a couple making out in public, and I was surprised by my shock due to my “home” country’s norms. 

Healthcare

Although many schools do not offer traditional medical aid, they often give medical insurance and access to the government hospital system through a health card (around R250 or $ 13 annually). The government hospital (Hamad) in Doha, Qatar, could give most private hospitals in South Africa a run for their money regarding aesthetics. It is, however still a public service with challenges regarding waiting times for specialist appointments. That being said, if you end up in an accident in Qatar and you have a health card, you will be taken in an ambulance (no cost) and receive care for however long you need at a small cost (approximately R500 or $ 25 per day in the hospital only starting on the third day of stay). All surgeries and procedures in the hospital would be included in this cost. I have utilised the emergency room twice and although there was a long waiting time due to my level of triage, the service was thorough, with multiple doctors involved.

As with most things in life, you get used to it. The good and the bad, the easy and challenging. There is no perfect place to live or work. Despite all the comfort and convenience that Qatar offers, its temporary nature remains and friends who become family eventually head back to their real homes. For most, Qatar is a pitstop, perhaps even a temporary oasis in the desert and for others a “home” until they retire and must leave the country.