My fabulous life as a South African expat in: The Netherlands
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A year ago, a 32-year-old woman from South Africa made a pivotal decision - I packed my bags and set out on a thrilling adventure that would lead me to Amsterdam. The driving force behind this life-altering choice was the irresistible opportunity to become a Product Marketing Manager at an EdTech company. Leaving behind the familiarity of my homeland and embracing the newness of a foreign city was both exhilarating and slightly daunting.
Amsterdam beckoned with the promise of well-oiled systems, pristine roads, and a web of dedicated bike lanes, replacing the load-shedding, potholes, and blue skies of South Africa with a unique set of challenges and rewards.
It's imperative to underline that the experiences and insights I've gathered are tightly woven into the fabric of life in Amsterdam, a city that stands apart in the Netherlands. It's a distinction that locals take great pleasure in reminding newcomers about.
The Amsterdam experience
The dream of relocating to the Netherlands was realised, sadly not without a series of logistical challenges. While my employer generously sponsored my visa, the relocation costs were not part of the package. The initial allure of the '30% Tax Ruling,' promising financial prosperity, slowly gave way to the realisation of substantial expenses, especially when converting the South African Rand to Euros. In this light, I advise anyone contemplating a similar move to seek a company offering comprehensive relocation support.
Upon arriving in the Netherlands, I swiftly discovered the country's fondness for structure, well-defined processes, and a pervasive reliance on digital systems. Here, the need for cash or cards is a rarity, as your smartphone becomes your ultimate tool. As I embarked on my journey of assimilation into Dutch culture, it became apparent that this was a gradual process, starting with the conquest of initial practical challenges.
One such challenge was finding a place to call home. The Amsterdam housing market, known for its competitiveness and inflated prices, made securing accommodation easier said than done. Be prepared to allocate a substantial portion of your salary to rent. While the idea of organising your living situation before arrival may seem enticing, a sea of scams awaits. In such circumstances, I recommend exploring temporary housing options, as your neighbourhood of choice can bear a significant weight. Whether you opt for the West, recently ranked as one of the top coolest 10 neighbourhoods to live in, or other areas like the East (Oost), North (Noord), South (Zuid) of Amsterdam, or even consider cities outside the capital like Utrecht or Haarlem, these decisions will significantly influence your accommodation, budget, and daily commute.
The Dutch way
Amsterdam's high standard of living is palpable, with homelessness being a rare sight, thanks to the robust Dutch social safety net. However, this comfort comes at a price. From housing to groceries, Amsterdam's expenses add up considerably.
Safety and liberation
As a South African, one of the most appealing aspects of Amsterdam is its safety. The freedom to stroll or cycle through the city at night without a trace of apprehension is liberating, contrasting sharply with the pervasive anxieties experienced back in South Africa. I vividly recall cycling home late at night during my early weeks in the city, realising that I could confidently navigate areas that would have been off-limits in my home country. It's a city where you can casually leave your coat on a restaurant hook without a second thought or inadvertently leave your bag in a public bathroom and return to find it exactly where you left it.
Cycling in the Netherlands is another highlight of life in Amsterdam. With just 30 minutes or so required to traverse the city from end to end, exploring it by bike is enchanting. The architecture, gardens, parks, and canals create picturesque vistas, and the exceptional cleanliness is nothing short of remarkable. The city's historic buildings exude an aura of awe-inspiring history, with charming houses and structures gracing every corner.
Culinary discoveries
As a woman who relishes a good cup of coffee, I was elated to discover the Dutch people's ardent love for this beverage. Excellent coffee can be found virtually anywhere, starkly contrasting cities like Paris. Tea, particularly peppermint tea infused with ginger and honey, also enjoys a special place in local hearts. It's essential to distinguish between "coffeeshops" (known for selling cannabis products) and traditional coffeehouses. Meeting at a coffee shop in Amsterdam takes on a completely different meaning!
The Dutch's penchant for peanut butter (Pindakaas) and nuts, which I share, led to a match made in culinary heaven. However, sourcing alternatives to peanut butter can prove to be a challenge. If you're a fan of almond butter, be prepared to embark on a quest or consider making the switch. Dutch cuisine primarily consists of delightful fried foods like Bbitterballen and Oliebollen (only available from October to December) and an abundance of potatoes, showcasing a particular talent for crafting delectable fries. Make sure to try Satay Fries and stroopwafels; they're a must-try. And, of course, indulging in apple pie on the quaint, cobbled streets.
Adaptation
There's no escaping the fact that Dutch weather can be a dampener. With approximately 217 rainy days yearly, Amsterdam is characterised by gloomy grey skies and frequent rain. Since cycling is the primary mode of transportation, getting drenched is inevitable. Investing in rain gear is a prudent choice. Nonetheless, you quickly learn to savour the rare sunny days.
The flat landscape takes some getting used to, making cycling a breeze. Still, it also means sacrificing the breathtaking natural beauty and biodiversity of South Africa. One thing I miss most is the warm and diverse people, their eclectic fashion sense, and their sense of humour. Regarding fashion, the Dutch favour a more practical and 'functional' style, making it sometimes challenging to distinguish one person from another!
Building lasting connections
Adapting to life in the Netherlands, particularly building social connections, can be challenging. The Dutch aren't renowned for their effusive friendliness, and making friends requires deliberate effort. Infiltrating a Dutch social circle can prove to be a formidable task, which is where expat groups come to the rescue. GGI-Amsterdam, a notable Facebook group, offers a platform to connect with fellow newcomers. Furthermore, the city provides a diverse array of sports and cultural activities. Personally, I recently attended a Tantra workshop (focused on self-empowerment, not just about sex). I also participated in a Regression workshop where we explored the effects of drinking blue lotus tea, a medicinal herb and spiritual flower known for its therapeutic effects on relaxation and anxiety reduction. The Netherlands allows you to explore various facets of your personality, provided you are open to the experience.
Culture, values and freedom
Another noteworthy aspect of the Netherlands is its work culture. Prioritising work-life balance, most individuals leave work punctually. On weekends, especially during summer, you'll find locals gathered at outdoor terraces, picnicking in parks, visiting museums and galleries, exploring the myriad markets, or leisurely cruising the canals. Convenient travel within the Netherlands to cities like Rotterdam, Utrecht, and Haarlem, as well as access to other European destinations, is virtually at your doorstep. For instance, Belgium is just a three-hour train ride away.
The Dutch's values of tolerance and freedom of expression render Amsterdam an open and welcoming haven for individuals from diverse backgrounds and walks of life. The city thrives on its multicultural essence, with almost everyone proficient in English. Amsterdam is a beacon of progressive and inclusive values, particularly evident in its enthusiastic celebration of LGBTQ+ rights during the famous Canal Parade. The Dutch also celebrate "Mamma-dag" (Mother's Day), emphasising the importance of family. Weekends, especially Sundays, are reserved for shared activities like sports, social clubs, family visits, or cultural engagements. People in the Netherlands consciously balance a diverse array of activities in their lives.
In addition to Pride, two significant events that await you upon moving here are King's Day and Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE). King's Day immerses the entire city in vibrant orange celebrations. Meanwhile, ADE offers a week filled with unforgettable parties, albeit with a need for early planning to secure tickets for popular events.
Life in Amsterdam offers a blend of unique experiences and challenges. The city has much more to offer than coffee shops, the red-light districts, and truffles. Although the weather might be consistently damp, it provides an ever-reliable conversation starter. The city's beauty, safety, and vibrant culture more than make up for it. While making friends and establishing a community may require additional effort, dedication pays off as you find your niche. So, while certain aspects of South Africa may be missed, Amsterdam unveils its own distinct charm. As for the thought of returning home, it's a contemplation that lingers, but for now, my adventure in Amsterdam continues.
